Sanctuary Stones: Edinburgh’s Hidden Haven for Debtors

At the base of Edinburgh's historic Royal Mile, just as you approach the entrance to the grand Holyrood Palace, lies a little known yet fascinating remnant of the city's past. Look closely, and you’ll find three brass “S” letters embedded in the cobblestones, known as the Sanctuary Stones. These markers, come from a time when this very spot offered refuge to the city’s debtors and those desperate for protection from their creditors.

These stones mark what was once Abbey Sanctuary, a designated safe zone stretching five miles around Holyrood Abbey. It was a place of sanctuary where, for centuries, people in debt could escape the threat of imprisonment. In a time when being unable to pay one’s dues often meant being hauled off to the grim Tollbooth Gaol, this sanctuary offered a vital escape. It was a rare legal refuge where debtors, if they could reach it, were safe from arrest and harassment as long as they remained within its bounds.

The roots of the sanctuary tradition go back to the medieval period. Holyrood Abbey, founded in 1128 by King David I, became an important religious and political centre. As was customary for many religious institutions in those days, Holyrood Abbey held the privilege of offering sanctuary, effectively serving as a safe haven for those who had broken civil laws or owed debts. However, unlike sanctuaries in other parts of the country, this one offered refuge exclusively to debtors. Those seeking safety here could live in relative peace as long as they stayed within the sanctuary limits.

Life within the Abbey Sanctuary was far from easy. Food and lodging were provided, but at steep prices, often much higher than what could be found within Edinburgh’s walled Old Town. So, while sanctuary offered safety, it was also a costly affair. Debtors could stay as long as they could afford to, some even residing there indefinitely. There were also certain rules to follow: sanctuary residents were required to stay within its bounds, although they were permitted to leave the area briefly on Sundays without fear of arrest, as creditors could not pursue them on this day.

Among the most famous people to take refuge here was Thomas De Quincey, a notable English writer and essayist, best known for his work Confessions of an English Opium-Eater. De Quincey was plagued by a combination of opium addiction and chronic debt, which led him to seek protection within Abbey Sanctuary’s walls. Ironically, his time in sanctuary did little to alleviate his debts. He only fell further into financial trouble, and ultimately, despite his literary contributions, he died penniless and was laid to rest in Edinburgh’s St Cuthbert’s Kirkyard.

In 1880, times changed, and so did the law. With new legal reforms, debtors could no longer be jailed simply for owing money. This landmark change effectively ended the need for Abbey Sanctuary, as debtors were no longer in danger of being imprisoned for their financial struggles. Shortly after, Queen Victoria oversaw changes in the area, leading to the demolition of many of the old sanctuary buildings. In their place, parade grounds were created for military demonstrations, and though much of the original sanctuary area was transformed, one building still stands and now serves as a gift shop for visitors to Holyrood Palace.

Today, the Sanctuary Stones remain as an intriguing testament to this past. They are situated along Horse Wynd, just outside the palace grounds, with one stone in the middle and the other two on either side of the road. They are easy to miss if you aren’t looking, but for those who know the history, these stones carry a weight far beyond their modest appearance. Visitors can view the stones any time of day, as they are accessible round the clock.

To find them, head down the Royal Mile, cross the roundabout, and look closely at the ground between the intersection of Horse Wynd and Abbey Strand. They’re simple, unassuming markers but serve as a powerful reminder of the role Holyrood Abbey once played in offering protection to those in financial distress.